As I’m back at uni starting all the new units I can have more makeup posts up again! At the minute in one of our classes, we are having little workshops each week. Last week we used gilt leaf in a look of our choice to learn how to apply it etc… and this week we learned how to block eyebrows.
For those who don’t know, blocking brows is basically covering the brow. It’s often used by drag artists and is often used in fashion & editorial work recently it can really change the look of a face. Then you can either create new brows on the face or leave the look without.
I decided to attempt a drag style eye look on my model whilst I was blocking out the brows to make the photos more interesting to look at in my sketchbook. I did only do one side of the face as we didn’t have a lot of time and I wanted to focus on one rather than rush two.
To block out the brows I used different glue’s from medical grade glue/adhesive, stipple glue, and sealers rather than the drag method of a gluestick and powder. Firstly taking the Illamasqua Sealing Gel (£8) on a cotton bud and smoothing down all the brow hairs to get the brow as flat to the skin as possible. As my model has thick brows I then went in with Pros-aide which is a medical grade adhesive which is a water based adhesive used more in the special effects industry. The pros-aide is basically a stronger version of the Illamasqua sealing gel, more durable so will tackle thicker eyebrows more easily. I did a few layers switching between the two products to really smooth down the brow hairs, I then moved onto applying the stipple glue, which is a makeup glue stick basically. It’s often used to lay hair, to really stick it down.
Once it had all set I went over with an orange shade from the Le Maq Pro Grande Palette and sponged it onto the area where the brow hair is nowhere else. This will colour-correct the area when foundation,etc.. is applied. I also used a shade close to my model’s skin tone to cover the orange from the same palette just to ensure the orange would be covered fully once the foundation was applied. I added a very light layer of powder to the area before going in with the Illamasqua Skinbase in 06, just to prevent the risk of buffing and mixing the orange into the foundation.
I then added the brow using the Brow Pro Palette from Anastasia Beverly Hills. then went straight in with my black shadow from Makeup Geek. Usually, I would apply tape to the eye to get a sharp edge but it wasn’t in my kit bag so I had to improvise and use a wooden spatula, but it worked so it was fine. I started with a pencil brush and just outlined the shape then grabbed a small fluffy brush and started adding black to fill in the gap, trying not to re-dip the brush to get a nice gradient. Once I was happy with the shape I then added a cream Colourpop highlight to the inner third or so of the eye and set it with Jeffree Stars highlight in the shade Ice Cold. I used a highlight as I wanted a more intense look than a shimmer shadow but not a glitter eye and I found this to be perfect as its quite a chunky highlight. Finally, I added lashes and mascara and then just did a quick face makeup that was quite intense using Illamasqua Skinbase in 06, Illamasqua Loose Powder 010, Morphe 9C Palette, Jeffree Star Ice Cold then Jeffree Star Checkmate on the lips.
I hope you enjoyed this post, I’ve enjoyed posting something different! See you soon! B x
( Sorry Mol :* )